I love electronics. If you know me, then you know this. I love computers, phones, video game systems, pretty much anything technology related. Being a video game geek I also own a couple video game consoles. I have the Xbox 360, a PS3, and a PSP. Had a Wii for a while, but sold it since it sat around most of the time. Still debating about picking up another Wii since the kids are getting older and could use it more, plus Kim and I had bowling nights.
With the video game systems there is one that is always being poked at for being a problem child. The Xbox 360 has been plagued with issues almost from its launch day. I pre-ordered and got a “launch” console (a 360 from when it was released). I played this console for nearly 2 years until I sold it to get a Xbox 360 Elite. At the time, the Elite was the only one that had the HDMI output, and I wanted it. For those that don’t know HDMI carries the audio and video signals digitally on one cable, much like a coax cable carries the audio and video in analog format. The difference? Compare VHS and DVD. And since our TV at the time had a couple of open HDMI inputs, I figured, “Why not?”. I have now owned an XBox 360 for over 4 years and have never had a single problem with it. Well, not major anyway. I did have it overheat a couple times, but it seems to be doing MUCH better since I blew out all the dust.
The Wii we had for a couple years. We didn’t get one until it had been out for a long time, so the kinks should have been worked out, but no. After about 9 months it went back to Nintendo because the DVD drive (does it use a DVD drive??) quit working. It was replaced and worked beautifully when I sold it (and it is still working to my knowledge).
The PS3 we have now had for 2 years. We’ve had issues with it recognizing DVD’s we wanted to watch. Sometimes it wouldn’t work, other times it was no problem. This has been going on for about 6-8 months now. Blu-Ray and games worked fine, but regular DVD’s sometimes wouldn’t. Well, almost 2 years to the day from purchase Aiden popped in a Tom & Jerry DVD to watch when something new happened. I got the “Yellow Light of Death” (YLOD). What cracks me up is all the PS3 fanboys poking fun at the 360 fanboys (like me) about how the Red Ring of Death (RROD) that the 360 gets happens all the time, and PS3’s don’t have this problem. Yeah, yeah you do. I know because it happened to me.
Ok, so I’m staring at the YLOD. Power off, power on, trying anything. Not working. Can’t even eject the DVD. Now, I’m well outside of warranty so there will be no “Goodwill” repair from Sony. They want $150 to send me a refurbished PS3 after I send in mine. All of Aiden’s game saves from Ratchet and Clank would be gone. So I start browsing online. I found a guide to fix the YLOD, and figured, why not? I could always send it in to Sony if it didn’t work. At worst, I’d be out the $7 I spent on the Arctic Silver thermal paste plus the $150 for the refurb. At best, I’d spend $7 for the thermal paste and we’d continue on while giving Sony the finger. On we go…
Here it is. Unaware of it’s impending doom. The tear-down. For the record, this is the 40GB PS3 model#CECHG01. I know, it is the “cheap one” but I didn’t care. It was the cheapest Blu-Ray player out at the time. Plus, it has built in Wi-Fi and gets regular updates (so if the BD Live gets an update, I get it). The model makes a difference, I know for certain because the guide I looked at was for a 60GB PS3 and it was slightly different internally than mine was.
First thing I had to do was remove the warranty sticker that covers a rubber plug that allows me to get into the console. I was out of warranty anyway, and I’ve always wanted to do this….so I cut the warranty sticker so I could access the plug. (Sorry, didn’t adjust the flash until later)
So, behind the rubber plug was a “Tamper proof” Torx screw (size T10). These look like normal Torx head screws, but in the center there is a little piece of metal that sticks up so that you can’t use a standard Torx, you need one with a hole in the center. Luckily, Puma had one from the times he’d disassembled a 360 controller and he let me borrow it. Come to find out, it was the wrong size hole for the piece of metal. Out came one of my small flathead screwdrivers and I just busted that little metal piece off. I now just use a normal T10 Torx.
The top cover came off once the screw was out. I found that this top cover is partially transparent, and serves no other purpose than to cover the main top cover and make the PS3 look pretty. Mission accomplished. I still think the PS3 is better looking than the 360.
I opted to remove the hard drive at this point. The guide didn’t show it removed until later, but it is so w quick and easy I just did it. One cover and one screw then slide the hard drive out.
Next was removing the screws from the main top cover. There were eight or so screws, most long with a couple shorter. I marked on the cover itself with a Sharpie so that I knew where the short one went. Figured I better just to be safe. Once those were all removed, there is a locking tab on the top right section (referring to picture directly above) and a hinge-lock on the front. Simply use a screwdriver tip to release the lock-tab, and then lift the panel from the back towards the front and it comes right off. Once the top panel is off it looks like this….
Ok, so looking at the picture directly above you have: the Blu-Ray drive on the right side, the power supply in the upper left and the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth daughter-boards bottom left with a one wire connection to another board at the upper middle. I know the daughter-boards are for Wi-Fi and Bluetooth because I forgot to plug the ribbon cable in the first time I put it together and neither Wi-Fi nor Bluetooth worked. Whoops. All in all I tore it down three times the first night. The last time was because I forgot to plug the Blu-Ray drive back in after fixing the Wi-Fi and BT board issue.
The Blu-Ray drive just lifts out here, but there is a plug into the mother board that you must undo first. This is actually held in place with screws that are holding on the top main cover as well. Makes it easy I guess. The power supply actually has five screws in it. One at each corner, with two in the lower right corner (closest to the Blu-Ray drive and the daughter-board). Before lifting out the power supply, make sure you untape the wire running between the daughter-boards. The bigger daughter-board has two screws (one on either side) and a good ol’ ribbon cable. The smaller board has only one screw. With the power supply and Blu-Ray drive removed it is easy to see the screw for the small board.
Now we are down at the main fan assembly/heatsink clamshell that encases the motherboard (what I needed to get at). There are again, various screws to deal with. Sadly, I didn’t take a picture here. At this point the you must unscrew the power supply ground wire (I put the screw back in its spot) and you can lift the whole thing out of the bottom tray. The back cover (where the plug and various A/V ports are) comes up with the clamshell assembly and then pops off. Here’s where it was fun the first time.
Opening the clamshell on my 40GB PS3 was quite different than the 60GB I saw online. First, make sure you unplug the fan from the motherboard!! Then I had to bend the metal tabs away from the A/V ports and there were two small metal dowels that went through the whole assembly. Plus, the bastard was damn near super-glued together. I didn’t want to break it, but it took a decent amount of force to separate it. I finally got it apart and this is how it looked.
Finally, I set to work “reflowing the solder”. First I cleaned the old thermal paste off the processors and the heat sink assemblies. I used isopropyl alcohol, but would have preferred ArctiClean (from Arctic Silver). My local computer shop didn’t have any, so I used what I could. Then I used a heat gun (not the best method, I know) to reheat the area around the processors. The guide I used suggested 350 degrees. I plan on getting a heat-gun with a digital readout next time. I had to use an oven thermometer this time. Not very accurate, but again, I did what I could. I’m impatient and wanted to get right into this. Planning ahead wouldn’t be a bad idea.
Once I finished with the heat gun on both sides I reapplied thermal paste and reassembled. Once I had done the three tear-down and reassemblies, it worked beautifully. For two days. Then I tore it all down again and re-did it, but heated it for longer. It has now been going strong for a week.
I want to thank Gilksy for his guide. Without his guide I never would have tried this, and would have sent it back to Sony. You can see his video how-to on youtube. Here is a link for step 1 (which has links to the rest of the steps).











